The Rhododendrons Have Convened

Out on Bald Hills, the lupine has made a case for the long drive. In town, music has returned to its usual corners, including a fiddler, and Arts Alive has resumed its monthly occupation of the Plaza. The season appears to be underway.

Scottish traditional fiddle with a contemporary sense of play. Lady Humboldt found her foot tapping in time without meaning to.

The lupine bloom on Bald Hills is worth the visit. The views require no assistance, though the purple seems to improve them. If it begins to feel like you've driven too far, continue until the hillsides confirm otherwise.

From Highway 101 just north of Orick, follow Bald Hills Road inland. The color tends to gather about 15 miles in, near the Copper Creek drainage and before Lyons Ranch. The flowers carry a faint sweetness, occasionally compared to grape soda, which seems unnecessary but not inaccurate.

It is tick season. A brief check afterward is a reasonable precaution, especially if any frolicking occurred.

Continue along the bluff straight ahead for wide views of the wind-swept ocean and craggy rocks, or take the 154 steps down to a sandy, well-composed cove. One of Lady Humboldt's favorites.

At low tide, the shoreline opens to the left, where a small waterfall appears along the cliffs, along with starfish, mussels, and hermit crabs going about their business.

Cafe Brio on the Plaza has been making its own pastries since 2007, which explains the line that forms before the doors open. Lady Humboldt's preference is the Berries & Cream Waffles, though the espresso holds up its end with whatever comes out of the ovens at dawn. Patio seating fills first when the fog lifts early. Brunch continues on weekends until 3.

On this week in 1853, Humboldt County was formed from the western portion of Trinity County by an act of the California Legislature. It was named for Humboldt Bay, which in turn honors the German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt, who never visited but whose writings advanced the idea of the “unity of nature,” linking environment, culture, and art into a single view of the world. The decision required a degree of optimism, as much of the region was accessible only by boat or a determined mule.